"A Cut Above The Competition"
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"A Cut Above The Competition" |
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This section will provide you with a few things that have made my life a little easier over the years. I hope it gives you the opportunity to enjoy a few short cuts for your adventures. If you have any tips or tricks to add please send them to the address below. All of the tricks and tips will come from a variety of sources. Personal experience, friends and fellow racers that have shared their experiences. BLOCK ASSEMBLY TIPS: All Chevy Big Block and some Small Block builds can benefit from valve clearance cuts at the top of the cylinder bores. These chamfers are added to clear a large intake valve in a high-lift camshaft profile build. Blended properly it adds to the ability for air/fuel mixtures to flow around the valve face. Cutting the exhaust side will do the same thing. MORE FLOW MORE PONIES"!!
Ever noticed when you installed the timing chain set the gears didn't quit line up? Maybe it's because the rear cam plug was installed to far inward. After bolting firmly in place the timing gear, use a dead blow hammer to seat the gear against the Block, Thrust Bearing or Wear Plate. Remember to add silicone to the newly positioned cam plug or it will leak! Reduces cam lobe wear!
Ever notice (after head installation) your roller rockers are not centered over the valve stem even with guide plates for your application? Try Iskenderian cams adjustable guide plates #213/770-0930 (small Block). Just set the proper distance, mark and weld in place for the perfect fit every time you change components. Reduced guide wear.
If you run a solid or roller cam you must run a cam button to keep the cam from walking forward and ruining your cam lobes or timing chain cover. Block protector highly recommended! Gotta love saving parts.
Ever noticed the spring seats look rough in those new or reworked heads? Don't live with cocked or uneven valve spring seats. Incorrect valve spring position will effect operation and spring longevity. Use a spring-seat cutter (MANLEY makes one) in a hand drill to square things up. Purchase the correct size for your springs, and ensure you use plenty of oil to keep things sharp. Always use a shim (for the correct installed height) under the spring even with iron heads to save the seat from wear. More Parts Savings.
Grooved Harmonic Balancer Hub? Don't buy a new damper, use a damper sleeve. Apply a good locking compound and tap it into place. New metal for the seal to ride on at a fraction of a balancer price! Available at most parts houses or machine shops! Saving money!
Install the crank gear prior to installing the crank in the engine. Your bearings will thank you! Save Bearing Damage!
Not sure how to break in that new cam shaft or start up a newly rebuilt engine? Before stabbing the distributor, spin the oil pump with a primer shaft and drill. Once oil pressure has been established, stab the distributor. Once the engine fires the first time, set the idle screw for an rpm of about 2000 for 20 minutes. Short of a fuel leak or fire, DO NOT STOP engine during this time! Drop the rpm back to idle speed and vary by hand or foot the rpm from 1500 to 2200 for another 10 minutes. The higher rpm will increase oil pressure allowing for initial break in of the cam lobes. Save that camshaft!
BASIC ALL AROUND TIPS: Vibration after installing a shackle kit for tire clearance? Adjust the pinion angle and put a stop to the vibration. Shims are available to make the job easier! Save your U joints, transmission output shaft and pinion bearing!
When setting snubber height on traction bars, buy two sets, install one set. Launch the car under power, then cut 1/8" off at a time (both sides) until you get wheel hop during launch. Then measure the installed snubber and add 1/8" to the length for the correct snubber height. Firm Grip on things!
Wonder why that newly rebuilt engine smoke occasionally? Poor rebuild? MAYBE! You could have spared the price on the head work and just had umbrella seals installed. They do not attach to the head. They move up and down with the valve, trapping oil in between the seal and the guide boss causing the oil to inter the cylinder with every valve stroke. Next time install a Positive seal (Viton Rubber) which locks to the guide boss preventing the up and down motion during valve travel. Oil Control!
Driving a newer vehicle that has lost its zip? You always run a fuel injector cleaner in the tank! Maybe you have a build up behind the valves, or on the intake runners causing restricted air flow. Use a injector/intake track cleaner to clean the whole intake system. More Fuel Economy/Performance!
Upgraded to an electric choke carb on that old style vehicle? Has your performance decreased or the choke does not want to come off completely during operation? You must have a full 12 volts to the choke assembly at all times! Yeah the ignition coil seams like a good 12 volt source but many coil wires have resistance wires so the voltage is lower than 12 anyway. Not to mention your spark will be much less while supplying the choke. Run a wire from the fuse block connected to a source that stays hot the entire time the engine is running. Fuel Savings!
Did you install a new set of roller rockers for your hydraulic cam but you seem to have lost some performance? All the rocker manufactures will tell you the factory valve settings will be too tight! Set them at zero lash and refrain from the normal 1/2 or 3/4 turn after contact. Enjoy the extra ponies!
Have you thought of installing head studs rather than bolts? The strength is outstanding but when you read "APPLY LOC-TIT", they are not talking about thread locker! They mean a thread sealer as the water will seep by the thread locker offering early bearing failure from water in the oil! I prefer Permatex #2 for the studs. ARP offers a Teflon sealer P/N 100-9904. Ensure Engine Life!
Ever installed a new aluminum intake and cannot get the oil leaks on the front and rear block rails to stop? Next time throw the end rail gaskets away and use a 1/4 inch round bead of Permatex Ultra Black RTV. Let it skin (when you touch it the bead will not stick to your finger) for about 20 minutes. Then carefully lower the intake in place, torque down to the proper specs, let set over night before adding fluids or starting. Remember to add a little sealer to the intake bolt threads to keep oil from seeping up on the new shinny manifold. Gotta love leak free/clean installations.
Not Sure how to read bearings during an overhaul? Bearings are like spark plugs. If you look hard enough, they will tell a story. Good or bad, they will guide you. You can look for the following
for a little guidance in what you see.
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