"A Cut Above The Competition"
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"A Cut Above The Competition" |
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This page is dedicated to the customers of CE HIGH PERFORMANCE Please enjoy the Photos! And owners please let me know of any updates.
This is not a CE HIGH PERFORMANCE customer but gets folks in the mood! Can you imagine towing a plane with this one? It was sent to me from an old friend at J & B Aviation. It was taken at the Reno Air Races.
Dennis Addington San Antonio Texas: 1972 GTO
Though I do not normally build anything but the Chevrolet line, a good friend ask me to tackle a Pontiac 400. After installing a new set of KRE Heads, large tube headers and a CEHP custom built 830 Holley card, it shreads the tires with a bleep of the throttle. It will be undergoing a few chassis modifications (rear end, new automatic, stall and street able slicks) before going to paint. Keep an eye out for future updates. I hope to publish the times from a pass or two in the early part of next season.
Rick & Joce from Canada: 1975 Nova SS
Chevrolet 355 CID, Weiand Cross Ram W/ 2 450 Holley's
Cesar Camargo From Mexico: 1971 Cuda
Mopar 370.8 CID, Chrysler 727 W/3500stall, 4.56 gears Stay Tuned, It is undergoing changes to go FASTER! New Work Completed!
Above pictures show new Paint, Lexan Windows, New Dash, New Engine and rear set up! Will be at the Drags for the First race with new parts on 3 June. Oh, and a 4500 RPM Stall Converter. Stay tuned for times and track pictures. It should be fun! Watch for an update! He has finished (Chassis Dyno) First place in Super Stock, and third place in Modified during a local competition. He will also be racing after some changes to the front end, this weekend (August 3,4 & 5). We are expecting some good numbers! Cesar has won his first event and I just have to share his victory with everyone. Nice Trophy! He ran the fastest time to date with the car ( 8.01). Great Job Cesar!
UPDATE!! Cesar has finished a new car for this year. Lets have a look. GREAT JOB Cesar!
Cesar's Times at the track will be published when he fixes the rear axle broken on the first pass. Now that's POWER!
Bruce Chambers of Abilene Texas: 1969 El Camino
From time to time, we build for local customers and I ran across a little information on this motor I would like to share. It is a small block 350. As I started the assembly process I noticed a binding in the crank upper bearing halves as soon as the crank was dropped into the block. I have taken a few pictures to explain the problem and the solution. The problem was an old back yard trick to tighten main bearing caps that have loosened up over time.
Click on the picture and look carefully at the end of the arrows. You will notice a mark from a chisel on the block beside each main bearing cap. Using a chisel and shop hammer, you can swell the metal to tighten the main bearing registers in the block. The problem with that, is that it makes the bearings pinch at the butt ends locking down the crank after the caps are completely seated. The major problem is that using Plasti-gage, you would get a correct clearance from the bottom of the bearing surface. But the crank would lock up after the first few minutes of operation. The only repair is to have the block align honed to make everything round again. The next thing I found was the bearing halves could be a bit snug from the cleaning process. This will be the same for rods and main bearings. The picture is actually of a rod cap as the align bore cleaned everything up completely free of any dirt in the main bearing area.
The look of a bright shinny surface is what bearings should be installed into. The use of scotch bright will make the job easy. You know the plastic abrasive sheeting you use to clean pots and pans with. The hot tanking or even the shot cleaning process allows dirt and carbon deposits to stay in the main bearing area due to the main caps being installed during the cleaning process. Look at the head mount surface at the bottom of the picture and you will see the discoloration of the block head surface I am referring to. All bearing surfaces should be bright and shinny before bearings are installed. And remember to use a shop vacuum to clean out the oil galleys after cleaning the block side of the mains bearing saddles. Main bearing caps can sometimes be installed backwards if a motor has been around a while as a bare block. I have taken a few pictures to show proper orientation. The main caps should always be installed with the arrow pointing to the front of the engine, and the number one is always installed to the front of the motor.
The next topic is the rings. Even though they were factory non file fit rings, the second rings were too tight on every cylinder. So I filed them to the correct gap. Each ring should be measured at top and bottom of the cylinder and the tightest place should be used for the file fit or gauging.
Top Rings: Supercharged, Alcohol .018 - .020, Gasoline .022 - .024 Naturally Aspirated-Gasoline, Street Moderate Performance .016 - .018, Drag or Oval Racing .018 - .020, Nitrous Oxide- Street .024 - .026, Nitrous Oxide-Drag .032 - .034 Second Rings: Supercharged, Alcohol .012 - .014, Gasoline .012 - .014 Naturally Aspirated-Gasoline, Street Moderate Performance .010 - .012, Oval Track .012 - .014, Pro Stock and Comp .012 - .014, Nitrous Oxide Street .018 - .020, Nitrous Oxide Drag .024 - .026. These are general guidelines and you should always observe the recommended manufactures ring gap to avoid possible butting and piston or cylinder damage. Now would probably be a good time to discuss proper piston rod orientation. Sometimes though rare, a piston could be installed backwards at the machine shop. The notch on the piston top should always face the front of the motor, and the bearing locks should be to the outside of the block.
The Last item up for discussion will be correct cam timing. It is very easy for a beginning builder to misunderstand the correct crank gear marking. Each key way is marked for advance and retard. All three (straight up, advance or retard) also have a corresponding timing mark to be used depending on the crank gear position.
As you look at the picture, you will notice the straight up keyway is not marked in this set. The corresponding timing mark is the usual dot located on the right side if the picture. You will also notice both advance and retard keyways are marked with a plus and a minus sign. You will also notice that all three timing marks are about three teeth to the left of each keyway. The correct timing mark must be used for each different keyway selected. You can not use the stock timing mark for all keyways selected.
I will add pictures of the El Camino and engine upon completion. So come back soon!
Mike Strickland of Abilene Texas: Camaro Z28 It all started with a dream! You now the kind that makes you crazy until it is finished!
A good set of heads are always first in order. How about a set of Holley Aluminum P/N 300-570 available at Advance Auto Parts in Abilene. 202-160 valves and a very nicely finished bowl area. Pay close attention to the bowl area around the intake valve. The shinny part is where they opened up the chamber to allow better flow around the valve face. Then no set of heads are complete without a good set of roller rockers and of course a correct set of springs for the camshaft profile.
All you need is some modeling clay, a set of calipers and a sharp exacto knife. First off, you start by rotating the number one cylinder to top dead center. Then (I use WD-40) spray a bit of lubrication on the top of the piston. Then take a piece of modeling clay and put a strip over both valve relief's. Then install the head (spray a light film of lubricant on the valve faces) with gasket and install 4 head bolts around the number one cylinder. Just snug the bolts to get the head square. Not more than five foot pounds. Then set the push rods and rockers to the cam manufactures adjustment, then rotate the engine through a full revolution of number one cylinder. Then remove the cylinder head and using a sharp knife blade, cut through the center of each valve relief. Then carefully remove one half of the clay to measure the thickness. Measure the thickness with the calipers to get a correct piston to valve clearance. I like to have at least 0.080 to 0.085 on the intake, and 0.100 to 0.110 on the exhaust. Remember to look at the manufactures installed thickness of the head gasket at proper torque and make corrections as needed. And as a a proud builder you always dry fit all components before the finished installation. You know, to get the itch for completion! THE NEED FOR SPEED!! And just to be different Mike has chosen a very vibrant light (NEON) green. I like to see the different than normal factory colors in a Chevrolet. When you pop the hood, it just makes a statement! Grasping the desire to know what is really built before your eye's.
Please check back often until we have a completed engine, installation and a nice SMOKY BURNOUT! We will also share some in-depth information on the engine and drive train. Who knows, we may even get a few time slips from the new Abilene Dragway Park next season. Oh and a note for all the local's, If you own a new Mustang or a Camaro, watch out for this one at the next stop light! You will most likely find out what his rear license plate reads!
As you can tell, Mike was so happy to get the car running, he just had to take a couple of pictures. At first there was an over heating problem. But that was quickly resolved with a "BE COOL" 4 inch radiator. These pictures were taken after the first maiden voyage. You can tell Mike lives on a very dusty road (engine picture). That is probably why he chose the big 14" X 6" K & N filter. Pay close attention to the hood (Out Law 4") and the next time you see pictures, hopefully it will be primed and ready for paint. So take a close look, and hope the first time you see him on the streets of Abilene he has not changed gears and a larger stall! You might stand a chance! NOT!!! At the track. You know, the Shoot Out. Mike had a choice to make prior to the Shoot Out. Gears, Slicks a new converter or a trailer. I think he made the right choice. He chose the trailer so when everything is finally finished up on the car, he is not forced to be choosy for gear selection so he can drive it to the track. But do not think for one minute the car was not a big success. The times were not an honest reflection of the cars capabilities. Street tires, 323 gears and a B&M stall that refused to go any further than about 1400 RPM, the car still ran 9.40's and 9.50's. The really amazing part of the weekend were the time trials when the start was heads up. After the car gets moving, it has no problem staying beside cars running well into the 8's. Looking forward to seeing a time slip after all the changes are made. It would not surprise me if it does not see high 7's in the eight mile.
Mike at the The "2002 Western Bracket Finals" at Wall Dragway.
Stay tuned for the next adventure from the track. UPDATE Well a track number is not the only thing inline for an update. Mike has changed so many things on the car, it is time for a picture description. After all you see in the way of updates, a new motor will be in the works to take advantage of the upgrades to the car. A roll cage and fabricated sub frame connectors.
Finished Stay tuned for the next round of upgrades.
Gary and Lisa of West Virginia It was only a matter of time before I got involved in Circle Track racing. And has it led to a wonderful friendship. Gary and Lisa are just exceptional people and will be traveling through Abilene this month. I am really looking forward to meeting them. They may be getting a second car for next season and we wish them all the best with both cars as CEHP will be a part of both engine combinations. They race on a 3/8 mile banked oval "Winchester Speedway" in Winchester Virginia.
Here is the new paint and they are ready to have a big weekend!
Stay Tuned for more updates as they have a big race this weekend (5 & 6 August)!
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